Monday, June 29, 2009

Leaving Western States - feet first

I've joked many times that the only way I'll leave the Western States 100-mile Endurance Run is crossing the finish line at Placer High School or getting carried off the trail - feet first. The latter happened. About 6am Sunday, a full day after the race started a team of medics, rescue and fire department volunteers strapped me in to a stretcher and carried me off the trail at mile 82. I dropped at Third Gate, about half way between the Green Gate and Auburn Lake Trails Aid Station. I had torn my right calf muscle sometime in the previous day but failed completely to diagnose this. I guessed (wrongly) that the soreness was due to tightness, a natural result of running a long way over rugged terrain. My three year Western States dream ended with me lying on my back staring at the trees. Six burly rescue personnel carried me 0.8 miles uphill from the spot where I finally sat down on the side of the trail, unable to move another step.

The start: A high and happy place

The day started as I dreamed it would. An incredible buzz of excitement at the start. I choked back a couple of tears as the clock counted down from two minutes to one and then finally, to the start. There's no hiding the fact this race means a lot to me. I was enjoying the moment of feeling fully alive.


Happy- 10 minutes before the start


My plan all along was to be in the slower third of the field through the high country. As we climbed a little higher towards the escarpment and I could see the runners ahead and behind I figured I was placed nicely towards the end of the field. Not running a step in the first few miles of a race may seem foolish but it served me well as I reached the top with little effort. My breathing was easy and my legs felt fresh. Jez Bragg and I had spent the previous seven days at altitude, for Jez it would pay-off big time as he recorded a stunning third place finish!



Another advantage of a slow start is getting caught in a conga-line of runners on the single track trail on the other side of the escarpment. This would force me to keep my pace slow. In many places I was jogging or just walking. Taking a potty break before Lyon Ridge, I lost my 25 runner conga line and had the rare experience of running completely alone through the Granite Chief Wilderness area for about ten minutes.

By the time I arrived at Lyon Ridge with Matt, Karalee and Ling-ru I was feeling great and still far back in the field, probably just slightly faster than 30-hour pace. I thanked the volunteers at Lyon Ridge before leaving. I am embarrassed to say I forgot to say thank you many times during the event.

Pacing off Matt Keyes, Karalee Morris and Derek Semanski, we worked our way through to Red Star, climbing the hills at easy effort and floating the downhills. Coming in to Red Star Ridge, I felt like I was easing my way nicely in to this run. With nothing but a mild case of "jungle butt" beginning to form, I was feeling fine. Nothing too bad that some strategically placed bodyglide couldn't fix (trust me – you do not want details). Red Star to Duncan usually beats me up on short training runs so I was decidedly nervous. There were simply to many runners around me keeping me occupied to notice the terrain. It was on this section that I began over-taking some of the other faster starters who were beginning to fade a little while my pace held steady. Matt and Derek were near me, an excellent sign since these two know how to pace this race.

Duncan Canyon: Mile 23.4. 3:40 elapsed. 220th place.

Coming in to Duncan Canyon Aid Station, I was feeling very confident. Being a crew access point, I grabbed a Vespa from Peter and took in a lot of cheering from the sidelines. I am not sure if there were supporters out there who knew me or if the looked up my number in the race booklet, either way the support was loud and well-appreciated. I took in a lot of cold liquid and proceeded to walk out of there. Everyone was taking a good long walk break after having run over Red Star Ridge. I was perhaps the first of my group to start running again and started the cruise down to Duncan Creek, an easily runnable section. Steve Itano and Rena Schumann were with me – both fine runners so I was in great company. Unfortunately, my friend Nick Ham from the UK had a bad stomach and was beginning to suffer. At Duncan Creek I wet everything I had for the climb out of there, I was feeling refreshed. I passed Anthony Brantley coming out of there – another runner I hoped was OK since he's usually way stronger than I am. I was a little concerned I may be pushing the pace a little fast since I was starting to reel in a lot of runners. My effort seemed quite low so I decided I needed to back my body and keep moving.

At Robinson Flat: Mile 29.7. 06:50 elapsed. 183rd place

Oh the crowd! What a spectacle. I have never run through a tunnel of people before, but there they all were lined up on either side of the road. Amazing. I got my blood, salt and feed intake data all checked by a the sodium study group, a process which was amazingly quick. My smiling chief crew person, Lindsay Meyer was on had to hand me another Vespa and some dry Injinji socks. My feet were fine, but a change in to dry socks was a smart preventative move since I had thoroughly drenched myself in Duncan Creek. Thank you Lindsey, I was so relieved that you drove all that way just to see me for a couple of minutes. The crowd must have had me pumped up bigtime – as soon as I left the aid station I was flying. I remember thinking at the time "I am running like Bruce Labelle"


Coming in to Robinson Flat - I was delighted with so much crowd support and (of course) my crew.

To Miller's Defeat Mile 34.4. 08:04 elapsed. 148th place

I walked most of the way to the top of Little Bald Mountain a mile after Robinson Flat to let the liquid in my stomach settle and allowing my legs to warm back up after the break at the aid station. The top of Little Bald is back up in high altitude so there's no need to push this hill. Another 14 miles of runnable net downhill is to follow. On this section I concentrated everything I had on two simple things that would become the game-changer. Running form and hydration. I was constantly focused on running tall, light and keeping my weight over my feet. For hydration I'd sip on Gu2O and water (one in each bottle) every five minutes. I would finally lose sight of Matt's yellow shorts ahead of me just before the Miller's Defeat Aid station – which had moved down the road another .8 miles.

To Last Chance: Mile 43.8 09:34 elapsed 135th place

The top of Little Bald Mountain to the edge of Deadwood Canyon, I call the "transition zone". It transitions out of the high country and in to the canyons. Having long legs, I knew I had the advantage of being able to cruise this section relatively easily if I could maintain energy levels and running form. On the descent to Dusty many runners ahead of me were reduced to a walk while I was feeling comfortable running the long gentle downhill. The same through to Last Chance, I knew I only had to keep on running and the race would take of itself. There are a couple of little uphills around Pucker Point that have slowed me in the past but Steve Itano and I cruised over them, we were having a great day.

I was not just having a great run, I was having a dream run. This is how I had pictured the race in my mind and I was ecstatic, I seemed to be running the perfect race.

To Michigan Bluff. Mile 55.7 13:20 elapsed. 129th place

I have run between Last Chance and Michigan Buff more times than I care to remember, so I knew every rock, hill and tail-less lizard on the trail. I took the descent to Swinging Bridge very easily, partly because I am a scaredy-cat runner on steep downhill's. Right near Swinging Bridge Derek caught me with his usual super downhill running style. Derek, Karalee and I soaked in the creek about 200-yards past the bridge so we would be cool for the hike up those mean switchbacks. I hiked Devils Thumb joined by two Safety Patrol guys right behind me. They wanted to know all about New Zealand, unfortunately after about the tenth question, I said I really need to just breathe on this climb, they graciously understood.

At the top of the Thumb I was triumphantly happy and not about to let simple polite applause greet me. THE THUMB – YEAH! I roared at full voice at the Aid Station responded back with huge cheers. At the medical I was only 2.5 lb. down in weight and feeling fine. The only thing the medical team said was to make sure I use sunscreen in the future. There were some signs of carnage beginning. I rocked out of there and ran smoothly to the edge of Eldorado Canyon.

On the descent, my right calf started tightening up. I figured this was most likely from the climb up the thumb and it would work its way out soon. By the time I reached the bottom of Eldorado, the calf was very sore and I had been forced to walk nearly a mile of the downhill. I was frustrated at losing time on a part of the course that I had trained myself to move through so efficiently. I cooled down with a sponge and some cold drinks at aid station and walked up the hill – soaking wet. I climbed exactly as I had practiced dozens of times previously in training, slower at the bottom and accelerating out of the top. The heat was never a factoring the canyons, perhaps because I had another point of focus, my calf was now starting to bother me on the uphill too. I knew I needed some attention at Michigan Bluff.


Coming in to Michigan Bluff


At Michigan Bluff: The first of many massage sessions this day

The Massage Zone. Michigan Bluff and Foresthill.

Running in to Michigan Bluff, I needed that calf massage more than anything else (including water). I lay on the table while the temporary massage therapist (the real one had gone out an a false rescue in the canyon) tried to work my leg. I basically said she was hopeless and jumped off the table. I was starting to get frustrated. My pacer Ken Parnow and Lindsey were again on hand with a change of socks, some welcome nutrition and thankfully a change of shorts also. I walked out of Michigan Bluff but was again soon running, a very encouraging sign having come through the two largest canyons and now running further than I ever have done before.


Beginning the gentle climb before descending in to Volcano Canyon

Climbing the gentle gradient to the top of Gorman Ranch Road I startled a huge black bear just a few yards away. He ran off huffing and puffing, I got a shot of adrenaline to add to the caffeine I had begun to take in at Michigan. The climb to Bath Road was very emotional. For months I had been hoping that Dan Moores would be healthy enough to be here on race day. Sadly it was not to be, I got a photo taken with Elke Truscott and I left that aid station with a heavy heart. The cheers of support from the Auburn Running Co. crew were amazing, the runner I was with said I must be one popular guy.

Coming in to Foresthill was a spectacle. Easily the largest crowd I have ever seen in ultra-running. My name was being yelled from both left and right, I was in such a happy blur that I could not work out who was cheering me on, but I am sure I had lots of friends out there in the crowd – thank you ☺ As happy as I was with my reception, I was thoroughly bothered by the calf muscle that would not quit. After taking my vital signs (the medics said I looked great) I tried for another massage to get the knots out of my calves. Gordy and his chiro-buddy double-teamed me. It had no effect and I was forced to leave before I would lose too much time on the table. Ken handed me my lights and we started for Cal Street.

I had reached Foresthill in 123rd place. The highest I was to climb in the raking all day.


Leaving Foresthill with Ken: The crowd support was huge. I was simply amazed.

Through to the River Crossing: A Dark and Unhappy Place

Ken and left Foresthill together. I was delighted to have him with me. Being a keen young local ultrarunner, I was hoping to provide him with his first Western States pacing experience. We ran pretty solidly down to Cal 1, turning on the headlamps about halfway down. This was the Aid Station I was most looking forward to – staffed by my friends from the Golden Valley Harriers Running Club. They had done a great job in a hot-as-hell location, I am proud to be a memver of such a fine running club.


All smiles with the GVH'ers at Peachstone (Cal 1)

Immediately after Cal 1 I started having difficulty running. The pain was persisting in my calf. Uphills were becoming a real hassle since I could not stretch out my right calf to its full length. Downhills were also getting worse as the eccentric contractions seemed to stabbed in to the back of my leg. Well over 90 minutes later I arrived at Cal2 where I jumped on a table for another massage. Along the way, Ken and I had stopped in the darkness on the side of the trail to massage the muscle out. Nothing had any effect.

At Cal2 One kind volunteer just wrenched on my leg, pressing deep into the muscle, icing and massaging again for about half an hour. Runners came and went, I stayed on the table trying to get some relief. Finally, after an eternity I got off the table and walked downhill. As much as Ken tried to get me running, I just could not run, the pain was ratcheting up and my range of motion was diminishing. The walk to Cal 3 and Rucky Chuck was starting to become a hobble. The same massage was repeated at Cal3, trying to gain mobility. All though this time I kept thinking that either recovery would come with the next massage when the knots were out. Eeither that, or I could walk it in to the finish. I was well ahead of the cut-off's but starting to lose time dramatically.


I spent over an hour in this position at various aid stations during the night


My poor pacer was forced to pace around at the aid stations while I tried to get this leg moving again.

Mile 78: Frozen at the River. Down to 160th place.

Over five and a half hours from Foresthill I arrived at Rucky Chuck. The Monsters of Massage were there and I needed a massage more than anything. Almost immediately, three massage therapists set to work on my calf trying to relieve the tension as I winced in pain with every touch. Ken very kindly shuttled back and forth to the aid station getting broth and calories in to me. Chuck Godtfredsen promised to kick me out 10-minutes after arriving but he saw my condition was genuinely serious and let me stay on for an extra half an hour. I saw perhaps 20 runners pass me by while I was lying on the table. Eventually Chuck nudged me out the door and I gingerly crossed the cold river.

Mile 78 to 82. The final push from darkness to daylight.

The freezing cold water from the river seemed to help, I was able to push uphill with only a moderate amount of pain. In fact it became so tolerable, I was able to speed up a little and push on to Green Gate, passing other runners. I was still hours ahead of the cut-off but was confident I could either walk it in to the finish or the calf would come right and I'd be able to run.

We sat down for a couple of minutes at Green Gate. Ken diligently changed the batteries on the headlamps for the additional two hours of daylight we had left and we started walking out of there. Immediately things went back to bad, the worse. The calf had seized up again and walking was a pure struggle. Every step I had taken in the past 15 miles was painful but now the pain was at a whole new level. I was near 30-40 minutes per mile pace and each mile seemed to take between 5 and 10 minutes longer than the previous one. I was staggering badly. Each time I stepped off the trail to let a runner pass me, I fought to regain my balance.

After 30 miles of battling through gradually increasing pain and loss of mobility, I knew could not longer make it to the next aid station. I had thrown everything I knew (extra salt, over one hour of massage, stretching, Tylenol, ice, the river) at this calf muscle at it failed to respond completely, The only responsible thing to do was to drop somewhere that I could be easily rescued. Third Gate (about mile 82) between Green Gate and Auburn Lake Trails was that location. Ken left me the rest of his food and drink and I sat down on the side of the trail. I shook his hand and thanked him for being a great pacer. He ran ahead to get medical help.

Alone with my thoughts

I sat alone on the side of the trail. The sun was beginning to rise as three years of hope, training and planning were fading. I was only slightly disappointed in the end result but satisfied in knowing I had given this race everything. Battle scarred runners passed by and I offered my support to all of them. "Just checking my shoes was the story I told them "keep on moving smoothly". But soon my time to leave the trail would come.

A medic come down the trail accompanied by my pacer. He took my vital signs saying I was perfectly normal. Unable to bear weight on my leg anymore, I rolled into the stretcher closed my eyes and I was done.

Friday, June 19, 2009

in the greatest, with the best

What is the greatest ultra-marathon in the world? Comrades in South Africa, Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc in France, Switzerland and Italy or the multi-day Marathon des Sables in the Sahara. Truth is, it's a personal judgement. A European ultra runner might say Spartathlon but many North American runners and many trail ultra-runners around the world say it's the Western States Endurance Run.

From 1849 through to the late 1890's the California Gold Rush saw the largest migration in American history as thousands of prospectors traveled from Eastern States to make their fortune. The Western States trail was a transportation route from Salt Lake City, Utah to Sacramento in California. The 100-mile section of this trail from the high Sierra mountains to the western foothills in Auburn where we will run is a beautifully preserved section of that original trail. At just over the half way point in our race, we pass through the small town of Michigan Bluff. The town has a population of 35 permanent residents, while in the 1850's it had a population of around 10,000. Some other places we'll pass through on race day like Robinson Flat, Last Chance and Deadwood supported a healthy population of residents but you have to look hard to see any previous signs of human occupation. So, there's history. There is of course also the famous race beginnings when a stubborn, shaggy hard-man named Gordy Ainsleigh decided to run the 100 miles in the first place. Each edition of the event over 35 years adds to that rich history.

For me it's personal. I got in to endurance sports when I was 32 (I am 37 now), initially with triathlon. I was extremely overweight - with the needle edging me closer to being obese than towards normal weight. In spite of doing triathlons for three years, I never ran. It was simply too tough for me. The only times I did run were during races. I sucked. The first run I did "voluntarily" followed two months of hiking. I rand from the Auburn Overlook to No Hands Bridge. And you know what, I even ran most of the way back up again. This was in early 2006. I felt a huge sense of liberation. Here was something that could allow me to take back control of my life. It is not coincidence that my first run would take me to No hands Bridge, if I ever run I told myself, the one and only race I ever want to do in my life is the Western States Endurance Run.


Just keep on running past those yellow ribbons, photo by Joe McCladdie from last months training camp.

In New Zealand, we have an appropriate word in Maori, it is mana. Mana is defined in English as authority, control, influence, prestige or power. It is also honour. People have mana as a result of their birth, their actions and their group. Places of significance and objects can also have mana. The mana a person is born with sets them off, but the way that they conduct themselves throughout life will either strengthen their own personal mana, and by that the mana of their tupuna (ancestors) , or weaken their own personal mana. Humbleness is a very highly valued trait in the Maori world. Many of great Maori leaders are very humble people, hence part of their greatness. The people sing their praises, thereby heightening their mana. These great leaders you will never hear singing their own praises. It is not that they are trying to be humble, it is that they just are.

The Western States Endurance Run has mana. The history, the trail, the organization, the 1,000+ volunteers, crews and supports all add to the prestige. It makes us as athletes proud and truly humbled. The athletes themselves provide power. So many of the world's best trail ultramarathon runners today have chosen to be a part of this race. Many are coming from France, Italy, Tanzania, Japan and the UK to compete. Many of the top US runners also have been training for 24 months-solid, just for his event. All of them are nervous, from the great seven times Champion like Scott Jurek to a first-timer like myself. All of us will be humbled by this race, some of us will be defeated by it entirely. Whatever the outcome, we are thankful for the opportunity to run in the greatest race, with the best.

Paul Charteris
19 June, 2009.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

12 Trail Running Questions

Nancy Hobbs from the American Trail Runner Association sent out some questions to help with her upcoming book: The Ultimate Guide to Trail Running. Since Nancy loves the trails more than just about anyone else, I was happy to oblige.

1) When and why did you start running trails?

I started running in January 2006, so I have been trail running for three and a half years. I started primarily to train for triathlons because I was an awful runner. Before I started running, I hiked those same trails for two months. Every weekend I would do a long hike. That help build up my legs and cardio output so that when I started running, it came easily to me. The first time I ran on trails was from the Auburn Overlook to No Hands Bridge on the famous Western States Trail. The first trail race I competed in was the Double Dipsea - it left me unable to walk properly for a week.


Start trail running on gentle trails - such as this coastal track around Mt. Maunganui in New Zealand

2) What have you learned from trail racing?
Do not start out too fast, no matter how short the race is. Also, hike the hills if your breathing becomes labored and/or your heart-rate starts to climb too high. Some runners that come from a road racing or triathlon racing background have a difficult time with hiking. They will not only end up suffering, they can have a complete melt-down if they try to push the hills too hard in longer races. I have seen it happen many times.

3) What is your favorite trail and why? (name of the trail and where it is located)

It is the Tarawera River Trail, located near my home town in Kawerau, New Zealand. There are spectacular waterfalls along the way, beautiful swimming holes and fresh blackberries in the summertime. It is just an incredibly peaceful place to run.


My favourite swimming hole on the Tarawera River Track, New Zealand. More photos here

4) What is your most memorable prize from a trail race?
I won 50kg of maiz (corn) at the Copper Canyon Ultramarathon in Mexico. This was donated to the Raramuri people of Batopilas. It was in a small way, Korima sharing something with them while they shared with me their gift of running free.

5) What is your favorite food for longer distance runs or races?
Put some nutella and almond butter together in a soft pita. The extra fat is great for long distance running, nutella is just like Italian Brown Herion to me.

6) Do you have any stories about running with your pet?
I don't have a pet, but my friend Caren runs with her Pomeranian, it's depressing getting passed by a fluffy little toy dog doing a long run on hard trails.

7) Do you have tips for someone new to trail running?
1. Go minimal, wear a cruddy old t-shirt and shorts (or no shirt if you can get away with it). Leave the cellphone, iPod water, food and drink at home. You'll be more at one with nature.
2. Walk the tough hills and smile, in a short while you'll be strong enough to run them.
3. Don't worry about breaking your ankles, every newbie worries about this. Trail running strengthens ankles like nothing else.
4. Read Scott Dunlaps blog.
5. Eat berries, nuts and fruit that you find on your jouneys (provided they are safe).
6. Enter a race that you are unsure of even finishing

8) During a trail run have you ever had a pleasant, or unpleasant encounter with an animal?
In 2007 I was pacing Australian runner David Eadie down by the river during the Western States Endurance Run. It was late evening, he looked over his left shoulder at something in the river. A beaver came swimming towards us with a sizeable log in its mouth. Despite being near the top 20 in the most competitive trail ultra. in the country, we stopped awhile to take in the scene.

9) What is your favorite trail race distance and why?
50-miles. It is a distance I can run the entire way when I am at my peak and is certainly challenging enough that I never know for sure if I will complete any given race at this distance.

10) What type of course markings do you find the most helpful during a trail race?
Ribbon. Using the same colored ribbon with black stripes indicating the direction of a turn certainly helps.

11) Have you ever been lost on a trail run, or in a trail race? What happened?
I have a pretty good sense of direction, thankfully.

12) Do you take safety items with you when you run -- ie: map, cell phone, pepper spray, etc.?
No again. In fact my favorite runs are the ones I like to call my 5-I runs. Five Items allowed only: 2 shoes, 2 socks (Injinji) and shorts. That's the beauty of trail running. You are free.

Best of luck with the book Nancy.

Cheers, Paul Charteris

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

final preparations

The Western States website says 11 days until race day. My first-ever 100-mile run is rapidly approaching and with each ticking day I get myself more and more excited. Without too much navel-gazing, here's where I'm at:

Health
Last week an old injury, achilles bursitis flared up. Now a week later I can finally walk on my left heel without pain. With a bit of luck this injury will heal itself 100% before race day. The last 3 weeks have been pretty rough, I had giardia three weeks ago, following by a violent (but short-lived) stomach bug last weekend. Both episodes combined to rob me of over a weeks of training but I also dropped 5 lb. and I am now down to my lightest ever adult weight of 185 lb. The program worked so well, I infected Caren, Ling and Peter and they too experienced the same miraculous weight loss that comes with violent puking. It's an amazing program for anyone wanting to shed surplus weight before race day while getting mandatory rest.

Fitness
I have had some cracker training runs (and even entire weeks) where I have run/hiked the canyons exceptionally well and continued to run strongly through to Foresthill and beyond. This has been very encouraging. Of course, on race day I have a whole lot of miles of high country to go before I even reach those canyons. I think my greatest gain in the last year has been in running form. My cardiac output and leg strength seem the same as last year while my efficiency of running seems improved. Needless to say my confidence is high, despite the minor health setbacks.


Donald and I plan to be all smiles at Dusty Corners on race day also. Photo courtesy of Scott Dunlap.

The Support Team
Some runners have splits, pacers, crew, equipment, nutrition etc. so dialed in it is scary. I now have a pacer, Ken Parnow from Auburn. Ken is a great young guy with a simply stellar track background. This year marks his first foray into trail ultra's and he'e been eating em up for breakfast. I am not sure if I have a crew or not and I have not got my running shoes yet. Needless to say I don't fuss too much over details. I plan to get to Robinson Flat sometime around lunch and be on my way to Cal 2 by nightfall. That's about as precise a plan as I am ever going to have. Don't get me wrong, I have a strategy and I know the course like the back of my hand, I just don't have any times or splits in my head that I can tell you.

I'll have some friends out there along the course. If you can hand me a Vespa, make me a nutella-almond butter sandwich or feed me some flan, I will be happy. Mostly, I look forward to seeing friends out there and hearing gossip about where the leaders are at.

If you see me out there, please do say hi (or even gidday!) that will make me very happy :-)



Jennifer waves while I float in Eldorado creek - like Gollum. Photo courtesy of Melissa Johnson

In the next 11 days I will...
1. Take it easy on my feet so the achilles bursitis heals naturally.
2. Hot (i.e. 170+ degrees) sauna every day (even the day before race day) to open the pores of my skin and get used to sweating profusely. Sometimes sauna 2x per day
3. Hike 1-3 hours on rolling trails. Hopefully, I do not irritate my heel doing this. I'll wear layers of wool to make sure I stay nice and toasty.
4. Eat a Very Low Carb (VLC) diet for the next week. I'll eat an abundance of high quality protein, some fat (from meat, nuts flaxseed and avocado) and vegetables. Since my exercise rate has dropped considerably, this eating regime will help me drop even more weight by race day.
5. Maximum intake of the highest quality Omega-3 fatty acids possible. I'll take 6000+ mg per day, sourced from diet and from Nordic Naturals Ultimate omega. This is an anti-inflammatory insurance policy, helps with blood circulation and thins the blood. All good for race day.
6. Stretch and hang every day. I like to hang from bars (like a monkey) to stretch and lengthen my body. I'll also get a massage and chiropractic adjustment. Anything to gain an inch or so in height to make maximum use of my naturally long legs. I'll pay particular attention to lengthening the hip flexors and hamstrings.
7. No running until race day.

The next blog posts will briefly describe what I intend to do on race day (other than run lots) and will provide the big list of bloggers to follow.

Cheers,

Paul Charteris