Copper Canyon Ultramarathon

Sunday March 2, Urique, Copper Canyon, Mexico.
I’ll post a link to the photos soon. Between us, we took a couple of thousand images of scenes from around Urique and the race itself. We’ll pluck out the weeds and present you with the pick of the crop online soon. At the moment, I am in Creel, Mexico on a slow Internet connection. So, nothing too fancy for now.

Josue Stephens has just posted some photos here Read his blog here

Ultramaraton Caballo Blanco, as the locals call it, is a 47 mile trail run in Urique at the base of the Copper Canyon, Mexico. Race Director Caballo Blanco, a part-time resident of Colorado and part-time inhabitant of Copper Canyon is the man with the vision and skills to bring this race together. Never an easy job being an ultramarathon race director, Caballo has an especially difficult task as he straddles the Western, Mexican and Raramuri cultures, each of which have their own different peculiarities and expectations.

Raramuri, meaning Runners on Foot in their language, are the people of the Baranco de Cobre (Copper Canyon). They are considered to be the greatest long distance runners in the Americas. A reputation forged by their environment where they travel long distances over trails, traditionally as a means of hunting, travel/communication and avoidance of Spanish Missionaries. The Copper Canyon Ultramarathon is a celebration of the Raramuri as a people and especially of the place of long-distance running in their culture. In addition, we practice the tradition of Korima, or unconditional sharing. There are many things we Westerners can share that are positive and supportive of the Raramuri. Firstly, we acknowledge their love of running and have the greatest of respect for their immense abilities. Secondly, in a material way, we Western Runners and the race sponsors provide corn to the Raramuri. Each finisher of the Ultramarathon receives 5 sacks (of 50kg each) of corn with the top ten male and female finishers receiving considerably more. In the spirit of Korima, all of the Western finishers donated their corn to the local people.

Two days before race day we walked the second 18-mile loop of the course. It was an out and back, the first and last part of which followed the river, crossing it and then forging an out and back uphill/downhill section that began and ended with some ugly hard switchbacks. At the turnaround point on highest point on the hill (for us anyway – the hill continued another 3000 vertical feet) we sat back under a luxurious tree, drank the Spring water and ate the grapefruit growing in the neighboring orchard. Back at the river a few of us took the chance for a long relaxing swim. Saturday was more of the same with swimming and lazing by the river. Arriving back in town, we saw another dozen more Raramuri runners jump off the back of a truck. This would be repeated the following day as the total field swelled from an anticipated 30-40 runners to 60,70,80, 100 and breaking through to 130 runners on race morning!!! This was truly to be celebration of running.

Race preparations started on Saturday evening with speeches and entertainment in the town plaza. The bands played to accompany the dancing, both Spanish in style and traditional in the style of the Raramuri. Each village was introduced with the Overseas runners being introduced both by their Western names and the name of their Spirit Animal. I was introduced as El Kiwi Salvaje from Nueva Zealanda.

As we wandered down for the start of the race by the plaza we were greeted by the large crowd (possibly the entire town of Urique and their dogs) and the band. A local official blew the start whistle and we were off. The Raramuri bolted from the start line like they were chasing down deer. About two miles into the race and I had almost lost sight of them completely. Many of the Raramuri were in traditional dress, wearing their long flowing colorful shirts and Huarache sandals. Their legs were strong and firm with broad an powerful feet that seemed to have muscle the whole way down to the end of their toes. Many others were wearing Western-type clothing including blue jeans, sweatshirts and sneakers.

There were 136 official starters with perhaps just over 100 appearing at the start line. There were 15 of us Westerners in Club Mas Loco. Through the second river crossing at mile nine we made a sharp right-hand turn and climbed the first of the days two big inclines. Coming back at me on the descent it was obvious that Josh Brimhall (El Antelope) and Joe Stephens (El Tortuga) had managed to pull in many of the fast starting Raramuri. I arrived in Urique starting to feel a little better with my legs stretching out on the downhill and my stomach beginning to finally settle from a breakfast eaten too close to the race start. Both Teresa Do (La Paloma) and Chris Labbe (El Cabro) passed me as I mucked around in the town square. I was starting to pass more Raramuri now as the race stretched on.

Leah Jurek (La Mariposa) trailed me as we left town. I stayed ahead of her until the bridge and up the hill to La Esperanza, the turnaround point. Curiously, on the uphill, many of the runners ahead of us were not running the downhills at all, they were walking everything. Repeating the pattern from a couple of days before, Leah and I sat under the tree accepting water from bags, oranges and bananas. From our vantage point we spied a herd of goats walking along the ridge-top on the opposite side of the valley. Leah and I descended together. Along the way, Leah offered her water to a Raramuri woman – Guadalupe. In perfect English, Guadalupe said she will finish in the dark. I ran ahead and waded across the river rather than take the bridge. I swam for a long time, fully soaking in the cool refreshing river water, a welcome relief from the weather that was by now probably nudging 90. Josue Stephens (El Lobenzo) had the same strategy and went for a swim also.

A quick stop in a small local store for a coke and I was revived. The great thing about Mexican coke is that it is made from cane sugar so it provides a better energy hit than its American equivalent. I took four Vespa CV-25’s throughout the day. I have never had a bad run on Vespa and this run was no exception. Thanks to Peter from Vespa North America, all the Club Mas Loco runners had Vespa for the run, many of them raving about it and pledging to use it in future races. Strangely, I passed very few Raramuri on foot. Most of those that I overtook we sitting on the side of the road waiting for a truck to pick them up and transport them back into town. Caballo Blanco said after the race that many of these participants were from villages that do run much anymore. In addition, it must be remembered that vewy few of them had access to the sophisticated nutritional supplies that we were using on race day.

Leah and I arrived back in Urique at about the same time. At this point, it was pretty obvious one of us was not going to outrun the other, which was just as well since she was very pleasant company to run with. Possibly as a results of our shared Finnish heritage, Leah and I do not talk a whole lot during the run so we could keep ourselves amused with few words. On the last out and back it was great to see many members of Club Maso Loco running strong including Amanda MacIntosh (La Peligrosa), the women’s winner, Barefoot Ted (El Mono) and Abi Stephens (La Lince). We were delighted to find so much aid on the course (water every half a mile in some places) during the final 11 mile out and back. On the return home Abi Stephens (La Garta) and Gordon Montgomery (El Chago) were having the time of their lives running through a sun-soaked landscape by the river.

I finished the 47 mile course in 10:32 together with Leah. After the run I sat in the Plaza with some of the other runners. Many of the young children came up and offered us sweets. It was a very simple and touching gesture that we had earned their respect. There were some 36 finishers from the greater than 100 starters. It was reflection of both a tough race and the fact that some of the Raramuri that participated were not used to running long distances. In addition, many of the Raramuri would make their way home on foot the following day.

Thanks Caballo Blanco, the town of Urique, The Raramuri runners and Club Mas Loco. A truly unforgettable experience. I feel honored to share my love of running with these people and have that love reciprocated.

Cheers, Paul Charteris.

Official Race Website: http://www.caballoblanco.com/
2008 Copper Canyon Results: http://www.caballoblanco.com/march2008results.html
Read more about the Raramuri: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarahumara